The Puglian Wine Predicament
Our trip to Puglia was an unqualified success, but writing about the wines we encountered, I face two predicaments. The first is that most the …
Cavatelli con le cozze (Cavatelli with mussels)
On our recent trip to Puglia, we had this dish at multiple restaurants for both lunch and dinner. It’s a terrific and light dish first …
Masseria Brancati: the Real Thing
As we prepare to head back to LA, we think about olive oil, that quintessentially Italian product — we had never seen so many olive …
Alberobello: Hobbits eat your hearts out!
I’m not sure there is much to say about Alberobello, the intensely touristy Puglian town famous for the world’s largest concentration of Trulli — the …
Lunch pilgrimage to the top of the Gargano
Monte Sant’Angelo is perched high on a southern ridge of the Gargano peninsula, overlooking the plains of Puglia below. We made the trek to this …
Masseria Masterpiece
This elegant agriturismo — resort, really — is a magical oasis in an ideal location for touring the historic and fascinating Valle d’Itria in central …
Gargano Paradise: Torre dei Preti
We were sad to leave this amazing agriturismo, Torre dei Preti, on the Gargona peninsula in the Puglia region of Italy; it’s such an unspoiled, …
Who dropped the town from “Mamma Mia” into Puglia’s Gargano peninsula?
We begin our trip to Italy’s Puglia region here on the Gargano peninsula. Located in the northern part of Puglia, “the Gargano” as it’s called …
The accidental visit to Villa d’Este
When I was researching places to stay after we arrived at the Rome airport, I came across Tivoli purely because of the number of photos …
Swordfish with lemon-oregano bath (Pesce spada al salmoriglio)
This is a classic Sicilian dish that is perfect for the summer. It’s adapted from Evan Kleiman’s 1993 cookbook “Cucina del Mare” which remains a …