Our visit to Naples revealed a city filled with foods I expected and plenty I didn’t. We’ve written plenty about the city’s irresistible street food, from the paper cones of fried fish to the golden frittatine. But the real surprise for me was the pastries. Amid the little shops selling savory treats, small pasticcerie stopped me in my tracks, their warm, buttery aromas drifting onto the street and catching my nose before I even saw the treats behind the glass cases.
The king of all pastries in Naples is the sfogliatella riccia, or simply sfogliatella, a glorious, shell-shaped bundle of impossibly crisp layers wrapped around warm, sweetened ricotta, dusted with powdered sugar, and served hot. If Naples had a culinary symbol beyond pizza, it would undoubtedly be this little masterpiece.
Our favorite place to begin the day was La Sfogliatella Mary, tucked inside the soaring Grand Galleria Umberto. There’s always a small crowd gathered around the counter, everyone waiting not-so-patiently for their turn. We’d join the line, breathing in the warm, sweet air, mouths watering. Their sfogliatella was worth the wait. The incredibly crispy warm layers were filled with a silky ricotta filling, lightly sweetened and kissed with orange. It was one of those bites that makes you close your eyes for a second and sigh.
The other pastry we tried was the rum-soaked Babà. These golden, mushroom-shaped cakes are soaked in rum syrup until tender and glistening. The Babà we tasted were not mushy but perfectly moist, with a subtle booziness that beautifully reflects life in Naples.
Then, one morning, at a small coffee shop where we paused for a rest, I noticed a simple pastry alongside the usual treats. We asked what it was and were told it was also a sfogliatella – but named sfogliatella frolla. I had never heard of it, so I looked it up and discovered that indeed it is a quieter cousin of the multi-layered sfogliatella riccia. The sfogliatella frolla trades the crisp, shell-like exterior for a smooth, shortcrust pastry, a simpler, softer interpretation of the classic.
The sweet pastry, called pasta frolla is easy to make at home, essentially the same recipe as the French pâte sucrée. You can buy it premade in grocery stores in Italy, but there’s no such luck here in the United States. The pastry is a simple delight: ricotta enriched with semolina and sweetened with sugar, vanilla, and bits of candied fruit. Simple but delicious, it was the perfect treat to enjoy with a morning cappuccino for a proper Italian breakfast.
As our trip went on, we realized that Naples’ pastries tell as much of the city’s story as its grand monuments and bustling streets. Each one, whether crisp and shell-like, tender and rum-soaked, or wrapped in a humble shortcrust, carries a little piece of Naples’ history and personality. They’re made to be eaten quickly, joyfully, often standing at a counter with the morning sun spilling in. And long after we left the city, it was those small moments, pastry in hand, that stayed with us. In the end, Naples fed us well, but its pastries fed us memories.
This recipe requires a few slightly hard-to-find ingredients and a bit of planning—but it’s well worth the effort for these delicious pastry treats. You’ll need semolina flour (also known as semolina rimacinata), candied orange peel, and good-quality ricotta. If your ricotta is watery, be sure to drain it in a fine mesh strainer in the fridge overnight. Begin this recipe at least one day before you plan to bake and serve the pastries.
Sfogliatella Frolla: The Naples Pastry You’ll Love Making at Home
Ingredients
Filling
- 3 tbsp semolina flour
- ¾ water
- 1/2 cup ricotta (drained if needed)
- 2 tbsp sugar
- 1 egg
- Lemon zest (from ½ lemon)
- ¼ tsp vanilla extract
- 4–6 candied orange peels (cut into small pieces)
Pastry (pasta frolla) Adapted from King Arthur’s Pâte Sucrée recipe
- 1 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup sugar
- ¼ tsp salt
- 8 tbsp unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2″ cubes
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 tbsp milk
Glaze
- 1 egg
- 1 tbsp milk
Instructions
Make the pasta frolla (shortcrust pastry): In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Whisk together the egg yolk, vanilla, and milk, then add to the bowl. Pulse until the dough comes together into a ball. When properly mixed, the dough will be crumbly but should hold together when squeezed. Refrigerate for 2 hours or until ready to use.
Make the ricotta filling: In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Slowly add the semolina flour, whisking as you go. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for about 3–4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add a little more water if the mixture becomes too thick. It should have the texture of Cream of Wheat. Set aside and let cool completely before proceeding.
Using a large whisk or an electric mixer, combine the cooked semolina with the remaining filling ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Assemble the pastries: You are essentially making large ravioli. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pasta frolla to a 1/16-inch thickness, shaping it into a rough rectangle about 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall. Place 3 large dollops of the filling evenly spaced across the bottom half of the dough. Fold the dough toward you and crimp to seal the pastry around each mound of filling. Cut out each pastry with a pastry cutter, large ring mold, or a wide glass. Each pastry should be roughly 3–4 inches in diameter. Place them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and refrigerate until ready to bake.
Final step: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Whisk together the egg and milk, then brush the top of each pastry. Bake for 18–20 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.