It’s really hard to believe autumn has arrived in Los Angeles because it’s been near 100°F all weekend. Fortunately, we’re escaping on another road trip, this time to Mammoth Lakes in the eastern Sierras, where we’re hoping for cooler weather and some fall color. Back home, though, summer seems determined to stay at the table a little longer. Our farmer’s market is still brimming with beautiful summer produce, especially bell peppers. This Roman-style chicken with peppers is a delicious way to use those colorful peppers. The chicken finishes cooking nestled among the vegetables, with garlic, thyme, and oregano adding their fragrance. Perfect for a last-hurrah harvest dinner.
It has been a good summer, with lots of dramatic sunsets and cool nights. The highlight was a road trip to Sequoia National Park, home to the largest trees in the world by volume, the giant sequoias. The main part of the park where many of the giant sequoias are found is around 6,200 feet in elevation, and the oldest trees can be around 3,000 years old.
In the foothills below Sequoia National Park is the town of Three Rivers, where we stayed. In some ways, this was the highlight of the trip. This little town reminded me of towns in the Delaware Valley, with quirky restaurants along a babbling river and little shops selling locally made gifts. It had a relaxed, slightly offbeat feel that made it easy to slow down and enjoy being there. Our Airbnb was nestled in a shady grove originally planted by a botanist who worked for the park. It turned out to be a perfect place to relax, read a book, and sit outside with our feet soaking in a burbling stream through the property.
Sometimes the best part of a road trip isn’t seeing everything you possibly can, but finding a place you’re happy to stay put for a while. Three Rivers turned out to be one of those places.
Once home back in LA, the high temperatures have made extending summer easy. I was back at the Sunday farmers market, where those summer vegetables are still going strong. I’ve already made all my usual recipes with zucchini and eggplant, so when I spotted those colorful peppers, this Roman dish came to mind: pollo con i peperone alla romana, chicken with peppers, Roman-Style came to mind.
In this version, a little pancetta adds a lot of richness, and the red, yellow, or orange peppers bring sweetness as they soften with the onions. There’s just enough tomato to mingle with the chicken juices and make a sauce worth lingering over. I use thighs or drumsticks, which stand up well to this cooking method and stay juicy.
There are a couple of places where a little patience pays off. Let the pancetta slowly render its fat, and be sure to give the chicken time to brown before turning it. Those browned bits on the bottom of the pan are worth keeping: a splash of white wine, broth, or vermouth loosens them into the sauce. I never seem to have leftover wine around, so vermouth comes in handy. (Make of that what you will!)
Serve the chicken with plenty of peppers and a hefty spoonful of the delicious pan juices. Crusty bread is strongly recommended for dipping. A simple green salad alongside will round out the meal.
Whether the weather has turned cool where you are, or summer is still hanging on, this recipe is good reason to stay at the table a little longer.
Chicken with Peppers Roman-style
Ingredients
- 4 oz pancetta, diced
- 3 lbs chicken, thighs and/or drumsticks (see note #1)
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- Red pepper flakes, pinch
- Splash white wine, chicken broth or vermouth (See note #2)
- ½ yellow onion, sliced
- 3 colorful bell peppers (red, yellow, orange), cleaned and cut into strips
- 1 cup peeled canned tomatoes
- Dried thyme and/or oregano
- Salt/pepper
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Fresh chopped parsley, for garnish
Instructions
- Lay out the chicken on the butcher paper it came in or on a board. Liberally salt both sides. Let sit for 30 minutes.
- Place a wide frying pan with a lid over low heat. Add the pancetta and slowly render the fat, stirring several times. This could take as long as a half-hour. Cook until the pancetta is almost crunchy. Remove the pancetta to a bowl large enough to also hold the chicken.
- Thoroughly dry the chicken on both sides with paper towels. Increase the heat under the pan to medium-high. When hot, add the chicken and brown all over. Resist the temptation to flip the chicken until it releases on its own. Remove the chicken to the bowl with the pancetta. The chicken will still be undercooked inside.
- Lower the heat to low and dab up the excess oil with paper towels until only about 1–2 tablespoons remain. Add the chili flakes and garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes, until the garlic just starts to brown. Add a splash of wine or broth to deglaze the pan.
- Add the peppers and onions and a good pinch of salt. Stir, cover, and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the peppers and onions begin to soften.
- Add the tomatoes, crushing them with your hands as you add them. Stir them into the peppers and onions. Once everything is warm, taste and add salt and pepper as needed. This is the last chance to adjust the seasoning.
- Add the herbs and nestle the chicken into the peppers and onions. Sprinkle the pancetta over everything. Cook until the chicken is cooked through, reaching an internal temperature of 165°F.
- Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Notes
- Choosing the chicken: Thighs and drumsticks work best here. They stay juicy as they cook with the peppers. I don’t recommend chicken breasts, which can dry out.
- A splash for the pan: I never seem to have any leftover wine around (imagine that), so I keep a bottle of inexpensive dry vermouth handy for deglazing. Chicken broth works well, too.