Fall in Montalcino is perhaps my favorite season. Once the craziness of vendemmia has passed, a quiet seems to settle over the village – as if taking a big, collective exhale. I’m sure there’s still plenty of work to do in the vineyards and cellars, but the sense of urgency gives way to a slower pace.
On our recent visit, we arrived in the middle of harvest and left just as the last of the vineyards were finishing up. It was fascinating to watch the season unfold during our almost three-week stay. When we arrived, the roads were full of trucks and tractors hauling crates of grapes. (Getting stuck behind them on the steep hills is the perfect way for me to practice my driving skills with a manual car!) By the time we headed to the airport, the trucks and tractors were few and far between.
The weather was a wonderful mix of warm days and cool nights, with an occasional storm marching through the valley. The rainbows that follow are always a treat to watch as they form and disappear into the mist.
On one of those warmer days, we visited one of my favorite hot spring spots not too far from Montalcino. A short hike back in the woods and an otherworldly wonderland appears, with warm, mineral-rich waters cascading over limestone, complete with soaking pools in the warm sun.
But of course, this time of year, the real excitement is happening back at the vineyards.
Spending time with our friends during vendemmia is a treat I never take for granted. I still remember that very first time I watched the grapes being harvested and sorted. Even after all this time, I still get a thrill seeing those big, beautiful clusters of dusty blue grapes in the crates, ready for the next stage of their journey.
How cool is it that an entire growing season led to this moment?? Months of tending the vines, watching the weather, worrying about too much heat or too much rain, knowing the right moment to pick. (The most frequent topic over meals was how the vineyards are dealing with climate change.) Maybe if you were born here, the thrill of it all fades over time. To me, it still feels like magic.
And then there are the grape bunches themselves. Each little grape seems to have a mind of its own. I am always amused to see an entire bunch ready for harvest, and one little guy saying ” Wait! Not me! I’m not ready yet.”
But perhaps what I love the most about vendemmia is the feeling of the collective effort, of everyone pitching in to make this happen. I love to listen to the chatter while harvesting or sorting the grapes, the laughter over the shared meals. What a wonderful thing to witness. I am so, so grateful to have this village and these friendships in my life. It is like coming home to a place where I wasn’t born. ♥️
And of course, I am forever on the lookout for recipes to bring back to my kitchen in America. There is one dish that I secretly hope is on the table at our friend’s house whenever we visit: her mom’s delicious baked rice dish filled with slightly bitter radicchio and heaps of cheese. The crispy, golden bits around the edges, against the creamy rice and radicchio (and more cheese), make me swoon every time. It’s the perfect dish for this time of year.
Riso al Radicchio al Forno (Italian baked rice with radicchio)
With the company coming and going over the next few weeks, I decided to finally make this dish at home in the US. I tried it two ways. First, risotto-style with a little more broth and a looser, creamier texture. Then this version with the rice partially cooked before being baked with loads of cheese.
Although the risotto-style version is delicious, it is the baked version that is the winner for me. It’s one of the wonderfully simple Italian dishes that is so much more than the sum of its parts. The slight bitterness of the radicchio mellows as it cooks, the rice stays tender and creamy in the middle, and the pecorino forms a beautiful golden, yummy crust in the oven. And those crispy bits of rice and cheese around the edges? Pure gold!
The dish is hearty enough for a simple supper (add a salad) or a first course, but it also makes a wonderful side dish for a fall gathering. Be sure to use a shallow baking dish so there are plenty of those crispy bits to go around.
Riso al radicchio al forno (Italian baked rice with radicchio)
- Total Time: 55 minutes
- Yield: 4 to 6 servings 1x
Description
This baked rice with radicchio is creamy and tender in the middle, with a golden pecorino crust and crispy edges that are worth fighting over! The slight bitterness of the radicchio balances the richness of the cheese. Partially cooking the rice on the stovetop before finishing it in the oven gives you the best of both worlds: creamy rice underneath and those irresistible golden bits on top.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 1 medium head radicchio (about 10–12 ounces / 280–340 g), cored and thinly sliced
- 1½ cups (300 g) Arborio or Carnaroli rice
- ½ cup dry white wine
- About 4 cups unsalted vegetable or chicken broth, kept hot, plus more as needed
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
- ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
- ⅓ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano or aged Pecorino Toscano
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Generously butter a shallow baking dish, approximately 9 × 13 inches. An oval, rectangular, or round baking dish will work. The goal is to spread the rice in a relatively shallow layer, so you get plenty of golden, crispy edges.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and a small pinch of salt. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the radicchio and cook for another 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until wilted and most of its moisture has evaporated.
- Stir the rice into the radicchio mixture and cook for about 2 minutes. Add the white wine and stir until nearly absorbed.
- Add the hot broth a ladleful at a time, stirring frequently and allowing each addition to mostly absorb before adding more. Continue for about 12-14 minutes, until the grains are beginning to soften but are still distinctly firm in the center. You may not need all the broth. I usually have about ½ cup left.
- Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Taste before adding more salt, as the pecorino topping will add saltiness. The rice should still be quite moist and creamy. If it looks stiff, stir in another splash of hot broth. It needs enough moisture to finish cooking in the oven.
- Spread the rice evenly in the prepared baking dish. Scatter the grated pecorino over the top and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil.
- Bake uncovered for 15–20 minutes, until the rice is tender, the edges are sizzling, and the top is golden. For a little extra color, place under the broiler for 1-2 minutes, watching carefully.
- Let the rice rest for about 5 minutes before serving. And be sure to scrape up those golden, crispy corners with every spoonful!
Notes
The rice: Use Arborio or Carnaroli rice for the best results. Both release starch as they cook, giving the dish its creamy texture. Carnaroli holds its shape especially well, making it a great choice for this recipe.
The radicchio: Don’t worry if the raw radicchio tastes quite bitter. Its bitterness mellows as it cooks, leaving just enough to balance the richness of the cheese.
The baking dish: Use a shallow baking dish approximately 9 × 13 inches. Oval or rectangular both work beautifully. I used an enameled cast-iron Staub baker, but ceramic will also work. The key is to spread the rice in a relatively shallow layer so you get plenty of those delicious crispy edges. Baking times may vary slightly depending on the dish.
- Prep Time: 15 minutes
- Cook Time: 40 minutes
- Category: Dinner, Side Dish
- Cuisine: Italian
And lastly, the disappearing bells…
I love our longer visits in the village as it gives me a chance to settle into the rhythm of village life – so different than the pace back in the US. Quiet mornings in the apartment, long walks around the village walls, an aperitivo with friends in the piazza. Or simply making a meal at home, then curling up on the couch with a good book, listening for the clock tower bells as the light fades through my window.
And, speaking of the clock tower bells! One evening while making dinner, I realized that I had not heard the clock tower all day. Normally it chimes the hour, and then it rings again, 5 minutes later for good measure. On the half hour, a single ring.
I waited for the next scheduled chime and zilcho! Nothing. No bells.
The next day, still no bells.
Curious, I texted a few friends and got two very different stories. One was that guests staying in short-term rentals near the piazza had complained in their reviews about the noise of the bells. (Seriously??? You are staying in a medieval village and complaining about the clock tower ringing??)
Another friend sent me an article that the clock tower was simply being cleaned. Whichever may be true (hopefully the latter), three days later, the bells started again.
All was right in my little corner of Montalcino.
Un grande abbraccio,
p.s. In the photo below, my apartment is the building on the left, top floor with the green open shutters.
